The autumn mirror is the cruelest of all. The holiday glow has long faded and normal life—with its grip of stress, fatigue, and toxic habits—leaves visible marks. It's the perfect time for a rejuvenating escape. I chose the natural path of Ayurveda, the planet’s oldest medicine, which, even 5,000 years ago, identified holistic detox as the solution to illness and aging. To experience its regenerating effects, I chose Somatheeram—the first Ayurvedic clinic transformed, thirty years ago, into a wellness resort, now an award-winning haven for stressed Westerners and celebrities from all over the world (from Madonna to the Queen of Norway, Bollywood actors to Italian pop stars like Alessandra Amoroso).
Kerala, the Ayur-paradise
I arrive in the middle of the night at Trivandrum airport. The air, heavy with spices and night-blooming jasmine, welcomes me to Kerala, the southernmost and greenest state in India. Thanks to its temperate climate (22–33°C year-round), this is the true temple of Ayurveda: a succession of untouched forests and palm groves, rich in water and free of pollution. We pass through tiny villages, tuk-tuks, and trucks carrying fishermen ready for the sea. And when the great wooden gate of Somatheeram opens below the starry sky, it feels like entering another world. I sleep for a couple of hours—and then it all begins.
Vatha, Pitta or Kapha?
Like every guest, my first contact is with the doctor. I meet Dr. Devi Chandrika, a physician with a long silver braid and a lively, humorous gaze. She assures me a lively sex life is always a blessing—even with high cholesterol. Beyond the usual questions about diseases and lifestyle, Ayurveda’s focus is observation: not just pulse, eyes, nails, and tongue, but also how you speak and move. These clues reveal your dosha—your mind-body type. There are three—Vatha, Pitta, and Kapha—and your therapy and diet are tailored accordingly. Every food and drink in the restaurant buffet (over 120 vegetarian specialties, with meat or fish available on request) are labeled with the recommended dosha. Apparently, I’m Kapha-Pitta. Moments later, I’m handed my week’s rejuvenation program—a string of unpronounceable names for what will be the most intense multisensory experience of my life.
Pass the Oil
Massage plays a primary role in Ayurvedic medicine. “Because it works on the skin, which is the most extensive and important organ,” explains Dr. Chandrika. “It not only improves circulation and tone, but also releases and redistributes Vitamin D stored under the skin.” The baseline treatment for everyone, starting the detox, is a four-handed massage with warm oil. You begin sitting up, with oxygenating rubs on the head and shoulders. Then you lie face up on a wooden table as two therapists, scooping up warm sesame oil, pour it rhythmically from shoulders to feet. They’ll also work you face down and on your sides. Maybe it’s jetlag, but I quickly lose contact with reality—and after an hour, I open my eyes feeling as light as a feather. I return to my cottage in a semi-trance, dressed in the standard white cotton turban and green robe worn by all guests. Even the Queen of Norway wore this? I’m told, with confidence, yes.